Inspiration: Chicago

When watching Chicago, it’s hard not to be captured by the mesmerising glitter and sensuality of the costumes, designed by the very talented Colleen Atwood. The 20s were a period of high glamour. Silk, lace and velvet were considered everyday fabrics to some women, and it would have been unthinkable for them to leave the house without a hat and gloves, something people consider too high-maintenance these days. Chicago showcases the incredible style of the 20s perfectly. It is packed full of dazzling dresses, not to mention the chic cropped hairstyles and flawlessly feminine make up.

The amazing flapper dresses:

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Back to the Future for YSL

The fashion world has been rocked by the recent news that Hedi Slimane, the new creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, has made the executive decision to rename the fashion house Saint Laurent Paris, thus taking it from YSL to SLP. When thinking about writing this post, I was determined to put a negative spin on it and point out all the reasons why it’s bad. But research, and time to mull it over, have changed my opinion altogether.

As it turns out, Yves Saint Laurent opened his first ready-to-wear boutique under the name Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and only added Yves when he started making couture. So rather than changing the house and taking it in an entirely different direction, Hedi Slimane is actually taking the house back to its roots. This is very positive, especially as Yves Saint Laurent was a bold designer who broke fashion rules and changed the face of the fashion world, paving the way for the innovation we have now. There are 3 examples of just how he did this: firstly, Yves Saint Laurent was the first couturier to create a ready-to-wear line in 1966 (Saint Laurent Rive Gauche). Secondly, he was an early champion of the trouser suit for women, becoming known for ‘le smoking’ which is the YSL equivalent of the Chanel little black dress, thus consolidating the relatively recent idea (at the time) that femininity is not confined to skirts and dresses, and it gave women the option of a new, elegant, liberating way to dress smartly. A woman in a tuxedo will always stand out from the crowd and look effortless and chic.  On top of this, YSL was also the first designer to use black models in his Parisian catwalk shows. If the reversion to the old name of the house brings about more breakthroughs like these, then it can only be positive, not only for the YSL brand, but also for the fashion world.

Dropping the Yves may also turn out to be a good thing in the long run for the couture element of the house. The  YSL couture house was shut down in 2002 due to criticisms of the designs. A new name may bring about a new era of YSL (or should I say SLP) couture, and that is something we can only look forward to and hope for!

All in all, whilst the name change may not seem necessary for such a widely recognised fashion house, there are definite positive connotations that go with it. I for one look forward to seeing if Slimane can live up to the boldness of the man who created the original Saint Laurent brand and can follow in his footsteps by breaking the rules of the fashion world for the better.

‘Le Smoking’ – photograph by Helmut Newton

Spring 2008 Ready-to-Wear

Prefall 2010

Prefall 2012

Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

The Best of Resort 2013

Rather than doing a post about the best looks from each show, I’ve decided to pick the best looks but also my favourite individual pieces from each Resort 2013 show. The stand out shows for me have to be: BCBG Max Azria for their bright, summery prints, Peter Pilotto for similar reasons – amazing, graphic, colourful prints, Stella McCartney due to the cool, elegant tailoring, and Valentino, who showcased beautiful, ladylike pieces. There are lots of pieces and looks here for you to look over – enjoy!

3.1 Phillip Lim Shirt

3.1 Phillip Lim skirt

Altuzarra cape

Altuzarra skirt

BCBG Max Azria

BCBG Max Azria top

BCBG Max Azria

BCBG Max Azria cropped jacket

BCBG Max Azria

Lots more looks after the jump!

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Carine Roitfeld: “The Client”

Another fashion video, this time W Magazine are following Carine Roitfeld, former editor of Vogue Paris, around as she tries on clothes from the Haute Couture shows. Since abdicating her throne at Paris Vogue to Emmanuelle Alt, she is now a client and therefore thinking of how the clothes will look on her rather than when photographed for an editorial piece. An interesting insight into her style and the incredible world of Haute Couture masterpieces.

Thierry Lasry Sunglasses

These beautiful sunglasses are the creation of Frenchman Thierry Lasry. He started his sunglasses label in 2006 and all are entirely handmade in France. Thierry gets his inspiration for each pair from vintage designs but he modernises them with his avant-garde touch, making his sunglasses ‘futuristic vintage’. What sets him apart from many sunglasses designers is the lack of logo, only real fans can identify a pair if seen in the street. Here are some of the best pairs from his 2012 collection:

AGONY

ANNOREXXXY

PERFIDY

PLATONY

PUNCHY

You can check out the rest of the collection here. UK stockists include Liberty and Net-a-Porter.

Similar styles can be found for less on the high street, particularly at Urban Outfitters who have designs like these:

The Joy of Sample Sales

This week has been mostly dedicated to attending sample sales – Erdem, Joseph and Christopher Kane – as well as one ‘Fashion Jumble Sale’. The sample sales were all fantastic and very different. The Erdem sale was held at The Future Gallery in Covent Garden and was full of sales assistants drafted in from the store. The clothes were on neat rails arranged by size and divided into dresses, skirts, trousers, shirts and jackets. It was incredibly well organised and made for an extremely pleasant shopping experience. Of course there was a communal changing area but there were 2 or 3 big mirrors and more helpful sales assistants giving advice. In fact it was just like being in a shop, to the point that oen sales assistant took my items off my hands and took them to the changing room so that I could browse more freely. I was extremely tempted by a pink silk chiffon shirt (pictured below) for £160, but ended up resisting the temptation and moving on to the Joseph sale on South Molton Lane.

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Vogue Covers Colour Charts

These charts show the colours which have been used on the cover of British, Italian, Paris and American Vogue for the past 30 years, from 1981-2011. American Vogue has by far had the brightest coloured covers, followed by British Vogue which uses a lot of neutral pink tones, while Paris and Italian Vogue tend towards darker, perhaps more chic colour choices. All found here.

British Vogue

Italian Vogue

Paris Vogue

American Vogue