Fashion full circle

Although fashion is always moving forward – think Alexander Wang’s innovative fabrics that change when heated  –  it always finds itself coming full circle to the same ideas and motifs. Season after season, designers return to their crutch of lace, leopard print and leather, and yes, they (sometimes) do new things with them, but inevitably the same ideas do crop up every fashion week merry-go-round.  Fashion is forward-thinking and reactive, but with pressure to design up to 10 collections a year for some of the biggest players, it is understandable that not everyone can be Wang (who designs upwards of eight collections a year, not counting his recently announced H&M collaboration).

Speak of fashion carousels and you can’t ignore Marc Jacobs’ last show for Louis Vuitton, which revisited his iconic sets, designs and silhouettes from his 16 year reign at the creative helm of the French brand, and never has a collection all in black had more panache. The pieces were, of course, widely shot by fashion publications around the world, their dark sequined allure lighting up the pages of magazines and shimmering sombrely on the red carpet. As with every collection, there were numerous inspirations behind it and a young Kate Moss shot by the one-and-only Corinne Day in 1990 has airs of the show’s feel.

Kate Moss Louis Vuitton Edie Campbell Marc Jacobs Corinne Day

The question is: is this an intentional reference or a classic example of fashion coming full circle? Did Marc pounce upon the insouciance of the picture, or just the general attitude of one of his many muses? And if the latter, then did Vogue Paris use the photograph as inspiration for its shoot with Edie Campbell? Probably, but even so, it is a coincidence, especially considering that when you put Kate Moss and Corinne Day together in a sentence, this is not the image that springs to mind. That’s nothing against the image, but rather a comment of the incredible work these two produced together. In the 24 years since Corinne incarnated Kate’s personality in black and white, fashion has come right back to this place again. Just look at her footwear as a classic example. The only difference: on a Nineties Kate Moss, Birkenstocks actually look vaguely good.

kate moss  corinne day

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A Midsummer Night’s Dream Hair

Having recently been introduced to the life-consuming wonder that is Game of Thrones, life has been infiltrated with new inspirations for flowing summer hairstyles. There is only one household to blame for this – House Targaryen. Both Viserys and Daenerys are blessed with hair so blonde it’s almost white, through which runs a beautiful soft wave. Not only that, they have mastered the art of the plait (or the hairstylists on set have).

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Viserys undeniably has the cooler hairstyle, sitting just above his shoulders, the kind of hair I would love to work this summer, but alas I do not have a stylist at my disposal day and night to make it look that perfect.

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Just a quick tangent whilst on the subject of Danaerys: the costume designer should be congratulated for their (deliberate or not) nod to Alexander Wang in some of her outfits. The outfit below is particularly Wang-esque due to the reptilian material, structure and strap detailing across the chest.

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Back to hair though, and the stuff dreams are made of; the ultimate in summer hair goes to Drew Barrymore and her bubblegum pink mane.

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Evidently this is not the easiest shade to work, in terms of both the upkeep and limitations to clothing colour. But hey, when your hair looks like that, it’s totally worth it.

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Worst Dressed of the Week

Much as I like Julianne Moore, and therefore don’t want to criticise or be rude, this is constructive criticism for her own benefit. Love, you’re 51 now, so leave the sheer Alexander Wang t-shirt dresses to those who are 25-30 years your junior please. This dress is not flattering on you I’m afraid. However the likes of Alexa or Erin Wasson would be able to pull this off with such ease that many a woman’s face would turn a grassy hue with jealousy. The loose cut and awkward sleeve length do not do Julianne’s figure any favours and serve to work against her instead – not exactly what you want when dressing for The Wall Street Journal Innovator of the Year Awards. As for the shoes, well I think any comments are better left unsaid on that front. So in summation, sorry Ms Moore, but this is the epitome of mutton dressed as lamb. Great hair and make up though.

image from vogue.co.uk

 

Stud Obsession

Without noticing it, I have recently added more and more studded items to my wardrobe. It is an unconscious action that occurs when I go shopping, leaving me with clothes, shoes and bags covered in metal embellishments. I realised this after my last shopping trip when I came home, surveyed my purchases and found that I had bought a Topshop cardigan with studded shoulders and a clutch from Urban Outfitters with little gold studs on the sides (pictured below). Studs are everywhere now (luckily for me) and even better, they are elegant and understated, rather than in-your-face and gothic like they used to be. The best way to incorporate them into an outfit is with a small detail, for example, a studded shoulder or shoe. This way you avoid looking like you’ve crawled home from a grungy night in Camden. Whereas studs and leather used to be considered a match made in heaven, they now look best juxtaposed on silk or wool. They also work best with neutral colours, although royal blue and gold stud details are a winner. Here are some of the best items on the high street at the minute:

Where the love affair began, all those years ago – Alexander Wang Coco Duffel

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